Overview of Fashion People
This episode of Fashion People (host Lauren Sherman, guests: New York Times reporters Jessica Testa and Michael Grinbaum) reviews a turbulent few months at Condé Nast, focused on major leadership changes, early moves by Vanity Fair’s new editor Mark Guarino (Guaduc—transcription variance), and the sudden departure of Will Welch from GQ to join Pharrell’s company. The conversation mixes hiring speculation, a temp‑check on new editorial direction at Vanity Fair, and wider questions about Condé Nast’s culture, strategy, and brand stewardship.
Guests & context
- Host: Lauren Sherman (Puck, Line Sheet)
- Guests: Jessica Testa and Michael Grinbaum (New York Times reporters)
- Key background items referenced: Saks filing for Chapter 11, reports about Gianbattista Valli, Courtney of magazine consolidation/reshuffles at Condé Nast, and the revived cultural focus on masculinity across titles.
Main topics discussed
- Will Welch’s unexpected exit from GQ (joining Pharrell’s holding company) and who might succeed him.
- Mark Guarino’s first months at Vanity Fair: the wins (big political scoop on Susie Wiles/Trump associates) and missteps (Olivia Nuzzi situation).
- The larger wave of editorial turnover at Condé Nast (Vogue, Vanity Fair, GQ) and what it signals about generational change.
- How Condé Nast manages brand IP and legacy titles (Gourmet trademark lapse and a journalist-led revival effort).
- Broader media/industry issues: advertiser relationships, events/parties as business drivers, and the tension between legacy prestige and scrappy modern media.
Key takeaways
- Condé Nast is in an active generational transition: three major non‑New Yorker titles (Vogue, Vanity Fair, GQ) have changed editors within months — a notable cultural shakeup.
- Will Welch’s tenure at GQ is broadly seen as successful in modernizing the outlet (streetwear, masculinity coverage, events), leaving a meaningful editorial legacy and a difficult replacement decision.
- Vanity Fair’s early win under Mark: a high‑impact political feature that restored VF’s newsmaking credibility; early scandals (Olivia Nuzzi) highlighted editorial/HR missteps and created noise around his start.
- Parties and sponsorships (e.g., Vanity Fair + LACMA) remain essential revenue/brand moments; new editors must balance editorial credibility with business realities.
- Condé Nast’s organizational decisions and PR mismanagement (Teen Vogue consolidation, slow response to controversies) continue to hurt perception; yet there are signs of creative energy among younger editors.
- The Gourmet trademark lapse and journalists’ plan to relaunch it shows missed IP stewardship and creates PR/brand embarrassment for Condé Nast.
Who might replace Will Welch at GQ — candidates and pros/cons
- Sam Hine: Seen as a natural in-house candidate (close to Will, respected by fashion community); lacks long managerial experience.
- Willa Bennett: Former GQ alum now at Cosmo — has editorial leadership experience and would be a high-profile, gender‑breaking pick; questions about advertiser comfort and fit with GQ’s male audience.
- Adam Badawi (Will’s deputy): Respected internally, global background — possible internal continuity pick, but lower public profile and unproven as a top manager.
- Chris Black (dark horse): Cultural connector with strong public currency (podcast, consulting, brand work). Advantage: a clear, interesting vision of what a refreshed GQ could look like. Disadvantage: no big‑magazine editorial management experience; may prefer freelance/consulting life.
- Others discussed: Noah Johnson, Sarah Ball, Tom from i‑D, Noah Shackman — each with varying fit and likelihood.
Note: Expect Condé to move quickly on succession (Will reportedly leaves mid‑February).
Temp check on Mark Guarino at Vanity Fair
- Big wins: Investigative/political reporting (Susie Wiles/Trump story) landed news coverage beyond fashion/entertainment — this demonstrated VF can still break consequential stories.
- Stumbles: The Olivia Nuzzi hiring/backlash exposed vetting/HR oversights and damaged momentum.
- Editorial moves: VF’s Hollywood issue and “boys/masculinity” features show Mark leaning into high/low cultural mixes (a Vanity Fair hallmark); fashion direction praised for mixing brands in compelling ways rather than full‑look brand mandates.
- Business/playbook: Partnership with LACMA for an Oscars‑season party signals a strategy focused on large, advertiser‑friendly events; VF must balance mainstream Hollywood play with cultural credibility (competition with W and Sarah Moonves).
Condé Nast: culture, reputation, and organizational faults
- Perception problems persist: high‑profile missteps (staffing/communications over Teen Vogue consolidation, internal stumbles around hires) fuel narratives that Condé Nast is a difficult or chaotic place to work.
- Leadership balance: Anna Wintour remains a powerful figure whose influence is generational; younger editors bring energy but still report up, creating friction between legacy posture and experiment-minded approaches.
- Opportunity: Many argued there is a rare chance to be scrappy and innovative in magazine editing today — if corporate allows experimentation and lets go of some old posturing.
Gourmet trademark episode (brand/IP lesson)
- Condé Nast apparently allowed the Gourmet trademark to lapse; a group of journalists quickly mobilized to claim and revive the brand as a worker‑owned project (in the Defector/4‑4/hellgate indie model).
- Interpretation: Signals weak IP management/low institutional attention to dormant assets, and a PR/emotional defeat given Gourmet’s cultural resonance with readers.
Other notable industry news covered
- Saks Global filed Chapter 11 (big implications for premium retail and fashion partnerships).
- Reports about Gianbattista Valli’s company facing trouble in Italy.
- Upcoming memoirs and books in the field discussed (Radhika Jones, Jane Pratt), plus mention of Michael Grinbaum’s book on Condé Nast history.
Notable observations & quotes (paraphrased)
- Two editorial archetypes: “visionary” editors (idiosyncratic, lead with a singular creative brain) vs. “crowd‑pleasing” editors (serve an audience); the former often produces more distinctive magazines.
- GQ’s unique position: one of the few mainstream outlets that remains approachable for “non‑fashion” men while also being credible within menswear conversations — successor must maintain that balance.
- Events are no longer ancillary: magazines increasingly rely on parties/partnerships to keep advertiser relationships healthy.
What to watch next (actionable items for industry watchers)
- Succession timeline at GQ (expect quick moves; Will’s final date reported in mid‑February).
- Vanity Fair’s Oscars season/party (test of Mark’s business strategy & advertiser relationships) — March timeframe.
- The Gourmet relaunch project and any Condé Nast response regarding the trademark.
- How Condé Nast handles future communications and internal HR processes after recent PR problems (Teen Vogue, Nuzzi).
- Coverage of Saks’ Chapter 11 fallout and designer/company health like Gianbattista Valli.
Final verdict
The episode frames Condé Nast at an inflection point: creative energy and editorial talent exist across the ranks, but institutional missteps (communication, IP oversight, HR vetting) and the business pressure to monetize through events/partnerships complicate reinvention. The next round of editor hires—especially at GQ—will reveal whether Condé Nast can genuinely evolve its brands while keeping legacy prestige and advertiser support intact.